Original Antique Emeralite Bankers Lamp: how to find the real deals

The vintage Bankers Lamp (the Emeralite) remains one of the most iconic lamp designs in history. The most popular Emeralites are the ones with the characteristic emerald green shades from the prewar period (WW2).

The different production series and their cost

The first Emeralite was produced in 1909 after being invented by American engineer Harrison D. McFaddin. Until the second world war, these lamps featured the characteristic emerald green glass shade. This is actually why the lamp is called the Emeralite, which is a combination of the words emerald and light.

Although the company continued to produce lamps after the second world war, they moved away from the green glass shade. Today, the prewar period lamps with the green glass shades are the most popular.

If you want to read more about the history of the lamp and the company behind it you can check out the article I wrote about it.

The prewar lamps belong to 1 of 3 production series, with each series being produced in different time periods. In addition, each production series have different models.

1st production series: 4873

The 4873 production series was the first, which lasted from 1909 to 1916. The most characteristic feature of the lamps from this production series is the way the shade is attached to the base through holes in the side of the shade.

To get a graphic illustration you can click this link to open a tab to emeralite.com which feature a copy of the original production series catalog. The most common models from this production series sold today tend to be G or AC models, and sometimes one of the double shade C, F or SC models.

These models from the 4873 are rare and therefore tend to be more expensive. Prices can range from $400-700, but will obviously depend on the type of model and its general condition. As a general rule you tend to have to pay more for the dual shade models, and models which have additional features, such as inkwells on the base.

2nd production series: 8734, most common Emeralites

The most common Emeralites you can get your hand on today belong to the 8734 series. This was the second production series which lasted between 1916 up until the early 1930s. In this production series, the attachment of the shade was changed. The bottom of the shades became indented on the sides and back which made them fit into a channel on the armature of the base.

Like its preceding production series, there were many different models. Click this link to open a tab to emeralite.com where you can check out a copy of the production series catalog.

The most common models found for sale today are the K, B, AC and G models. Occasionally you might come across some of the twin models like the C and F models, the latter being equipped with inkwells and pen holders.

Models from the 8734 production series are the most common, however, some models rarer than others. The most common mode from this production series is model B. Although this model was produced since 1916, a lot of these lamps are from the late 1920s or early 1930s, when it was given an updated design on the base.

You should not pay more than around $450 for a B model Emeralite in a good condition from this production series. Other models can sell for anywhere between 400-1200$. These includes the dual shade models or models additional features like the inkwells of pen holders.

3rd and last production series: No. 9

The 3rd and last production series of the pre-WW2 Emeralites were known as the No. 9 series. This was the shortest production series which started in the early 1930s but lasted no longer than 5 years.

Characteristic for these lamps are that the attachment of the glass shade was changed, in addition, the shade was made larger, requiring these lamps to have 2 light bulbs even for a single shade lamp.

Because this production series was rather short compared to the preceding 2, Emeralites of this production series are very rare and can cost anywhere between 1000-3000$.

How to get an Original Emeralite Lamp

Original lamps in good condition are few and far between. This makes them sought after antiques, selling for anywhere between 300-1200$. If you are interested in getting your hands on one, you have to know where to look.

You are most likely to find an original Emeralite in an antique store, or on auction stores online, like these listings on eBay. Alternatively, you can contact a collector which might be willing to sell you one.

Before paying several hundred dollars you want to make sure the lamp is the real deal. The easiest way is to look for characteristic signatures that can be found on both the base and the shade. You should also carefully asses the condition of the lamp. Many lamps are in a pretty rough condition which warrants significant discounts.

Where to find them

Antique stores and auctioneers

Like many other collectible antiques, original Emeralites are gathered by antique stores which know their value and can sell them for a nice profit. Because the Emeralite was produced in the United States this is where you are most likely to encounter one.

Some auctioneers have taken to the internet, hosting internet auctions, which might feature bankers lamps. I’m not familiar with any, and therefore are in no position to recommend one, however it might be worth to search through the web.

Online

One website I’m more familiar with, which also happens to have auctions, is eBay. eBay has become a global online retailer and auctioneer. Here vendors and private individuals sell their products at fixed prices or at auctions. It just so happens that private individuals often sell vintage Emeralites here.

Although you find some in prime condition, a lot of them sell without the glass shade, and some are in pretty rough condition. This often justifies significant discounts compared to the asking price (continue down the article).

If you are prepared to pay up, you might be able to get your hands on an original Emeralite in good condition. On the other hand, if you decide to get one that needs some restoration, you are going to be in for a bit of polishing. To see what is currently available, click this link to head over eBay.

If you decide to get one without the shade, you should keep in mind that finding a decent replacement shade is no easy task. You can read more about it in my article about replacement shades.

How to make sure it’s the real deal

Like many other antiques, vintage Emeralite lamps sell for a decent price, especially if it’s in good condition. Because of this, you want to make sure that you are getting the real deal.

Fortunately, H.G Mcfaddin & Co made sure to make it clear that the lamp was produced by them as you can find various signatures with their logo on both the shade and base.

Base signature

To start with, every original Emeralite from the 8734 production series onwards, should have a metal plate on the base which bears the Emeralite logo as well as the production series number.

The metal plate signature is generally located on the upper part of the base, near the shade. If the lamp you’re looking at looks like its over 80+ years old and has this plate and its base, you can feel pretty comfortable with it being the real deal.

Shade signatures

Original glass shades also have signatures, either in the form of decals/stickers or ink stamps.

The decals are usually found on the back of the lamps shade and have a beige/yellow color and a red circle, in which the Emeralite logo is written in bold green letters. In addition to the logo, you should find the production series number, as well as a made in USA/Czechoslovakia (the shades were made in former Czechoslovakia).

The slight majority of lamps sold today still have the sticker, but some dont. It might have been peeled off by their original owners, or been worn off over time. Because of this, a shade without the decal does not necessarily mean it’s not the real deal.

If the decal is missing, you might want to look for an ink stamp. These might also be found on the lampshade, either on the outside (towards the back), or on the inside of the shade. The ink stamp usually includes the Emeralite name and with or without “trademark”, production series number and/or country in which it was made (USA/Czechoslovakia).

A great resource to look up these signatures is emeralite.com which features a great collection of pictures of the various signatures. Follow this link to open the page in a new tab.

Condition

The price you should pay for an antique Emeralite will depend on the overall condition. This might be a bit challenging to determine, especially if you are purchasing one online. However, I went through the same thing when I purchased my and restored my Emeralite (read about it here). Here are a few tips to help you with your potential purchase.

Base

Most Emeralite models have a brass finish, but it is not uncommon for many of the lamps sold on online to look rather black or brown. They have probably collected tons of dust and dirt through the years while stuffed away without being given much care.

In addition to dirt, some lamps might even have signs of the brass base being subject to corrosion. This takes some work to remove and polish. I had to use a delicate metal brush to completely clean some parts of my Emeralite. Therefore, a seller should we willing to give you a small discount if corrosion is present on a lamp you are interested in.

My advice would be to contact the seller and argue for a discount. How much? It depends on how flexible the seller is, but I would call it fair with a $50 discount, given that the lamp is otherwise in a good condition.

Wiring and wall plug

Other lamps might still have the original wiring and/or wall plug, which is often in pretty rough condition. They might also not be suitable for today’s wall sockets making them a house hazard that needs to be replaced. Rewiring an Emeralite takes a little work and should, therefore, qualify for a discount.

The same goes if you see the need for replacing the wall plug, however, replacing it is not as big of a hassle and doesn’t make for the best argument when asking for a significant discount.

Missing parts

Some lamps might have parts missing or visible damage that should affect the buying/selling price, sometimes quite significantly.

Two parts that are commonly missing is the bulb socket and its outer shell (the part where the light bulb is screwed on), and the glass shade holder pins. The pins are the thin metal/brass rods that are attached to the base, and when extended support the front edge of the glass shade.

If any of these, or any other original parts are missing, you should ask the seller for a discount. The more parts are missing, the bigger the discount ought to be.

Structural damage

Sadly, some lamps have structural damage that should significantly affect its selling price. A common site is the metal part located at the transition between the flat part of the base and the pole which holds the attachment of the shade on the B models of the 2nd production series.

When I bought my Emeralite of this model, this metal piece was broken. I contacted the seller arguing for a discount from the listing price, which I was granted without any further argumentation. Therefore, always make sure to ask if you spot any damage.

One of the most common things to be broken on Emeralites are the glass shades. This one justifies a significant discount, given that original glass shades sell for over $200. I would argue that this justifies a discount of over $200, and if the seller does not agree, you are better off finding another one.

Bottom line

Some might argue that an Emeralite in rough condition with missing parts is more or less worthless. I would say they still hold some value which can be unlocked by restoring it.

As mentioned, I bought an 8734 series model B Emeralite which needed some restoration. From the pictures I could see that it has some structural damage, a broken glass shade. In addition, the original pull chain switch was missing, and I had to replace the wall plug.

When I contacted the seller, I argued for a significant discount based on what I saw on the pictures. Among other things, I mentioned the price of a new original shade and made an offer for 50$. To my delight, the seller accepted and I got the lamp, including the 2 pieces of the shade that had broken off, so that I could fix it up.

How to proceed

You are most likely to find a potential Emeralite on eBay unless you take the time to go antique hunting. eBay tends to have a handful of lamps, but many are in a rough condition, and some are obvious fakes. You can click this link to head over to eBay to see what is currently available.

Signatures

In general, If you find a lamp that has all three signatures, you can feel pretty comfortable that its real. But what if it is missing some, which one is the most important?

I would say the most important is the metal plate on the base, followed by the decal/sticker on the shade. If the metal plate is present, you can be sure the base is original and not a more recent replica that just looks old.

For the lampshade, the decal/sticker is the most common and therefore the most important signature. However, it is not uncommon that it might have been ripped off by previous owners or have been worn off with time.

Another potential giveaway for the lamp shade is the color. If the lamp shade has a brighter green color, I would be a bit skeptical. The original shades had a darker emerald green color. When lit it gives them a blue-ish hue to when turned off they look black-ish.

If You find a lamp you like, I would suggest asking the seller for pictures of these signatures before purchasing. This way you can avoid being ripped off by buying a replica for hundreds of dollars.

Condition

Regarding the condition of the lamp, make sure to go through the pictures in detail. Preferably, the pictures are large enough so that you can get a good look on the overall condition. This can enable you spot potential damages and/or missing pieces that justifies asking for a discount on the listed price.

If you spot defects or missing parts, don’t be afraid to argue for a fair discount. Just present your case politely, and most sellers simply accept, decline or counter your offer, no big deal.

Final words

I hope you found this guide useful in your hunt for an original Emeralite. Most of the information in this article is based on my experience buying one on eBay which I spent some time repairing with a surprisingly good end result.

If you ended up getting one, please be sure to share your experience in the comment section below. If you are still looking and have unanswered questions, don’t hesitate to ask!